Description of the effect of the practical management in the characterization of « terroir effect »

Globalisation and climate change have radically transformed world wine production upsetting the established order of wine ecologies. Ecological risks and the future of traditional agricultural systems are widely debated in anthropology, but very little is understood of the particular challenges posed by climate change to viticulture which is seen by many as the canary in the coalmine of global agriculture. Moreover, wine as a globalised embedded commodity provides a particularly telling example for the study of climate change having already attracted early scientific attention. Studies of climate change in viticulture have focused primarily on the production of systematic models of adaptation and vulnerability, while the human and cultural factors, which are key to adaptation and sustainable futures, are largely missing. Climate experts have been unanimous in recognising the urgent need for a better understanding of the complex dynamics that shape how climate change is experienced and responded to by human systems. Yet this call has not yet been addressed. Climate ethnography, coined by the anthropologist Susan Crate (2011), aims to bridge this growing disjuncture between climate science and everyday life through the exploration of the social meaning of climate change. It seeks to investigate the confrontation of its social salience in different locations and under different environmental guises (Goodman 2018: 340). By understanding how wine producers make sense of the world (and the environment) and act in it, it proposes to focus on the co-production of interdisciplinary knowledge by identifying and foreshadowing problems (Goodman 2018: 342; Goodman & Marshall 2018). It seeks to offer an original, transformative and contrasted perspective to climate change scenarios by investigating human agency -individual or collective- in all its social, political and cultural diversity. An anthropological approach founded on detailed ethnographies of wine production is ideally placed to address economic, social and cultural disruptions caused by the emergence of these new environmental challenges. Indeed, the community of experts in environmental change have recently called for research that will encompass the human dimension and for more broad-based, integrated through interdisciplinarity, useful knowledge (Castree & al 2014). My paper seeks to engage with climate ethnography and discuss what it brings to the study of wine environmental futures while exploring the limitations of the anthropological environmental approach.

Table grape consumption worldwide has experienced a remarkable growth in the first two decades of the 21st century, becoming the third most consumed fresh fruit in some countries, after bananas and apples. This increase has been attributed to several reasons, including the availability of seedless grapes, which has been a key factor in the increase in consumption.

Depuis le début des années 90, les vignerons des Caves Coopératives de l’Appellation “Côtes du Rhône” se sont penchés, au sein des structures de réflexion du Syndicat Général, sur deux axes de réflexion:
– Détermination des critères de sélection et de rémunération différenciée des apports de vendange;
– Organisation des sélections de vendanges sur la base des terroirs afin d’augmenter quantitativement le potentiel de sélection au sein de l’unité de production.

Certain grape varieties contain negligible levels of isobutyl methoxypyrazine (IBMP) in grapes. However, it has long been known that grape stems

The crunchy texture of table grapes is one of the key quality parameters during production. This varies from cultivar to cultivar, stage of harvest and vineyard performance. Cell wall properties are key drivers of berry quality (e.g., pericarp firmness and intactness) at harvest and beyond. Common practise amongst producers is to continuously monitor firmness by evaluating pericarp appearance of cross-sectioned berries prior to harvest. These qualitative methods can be quite arbitrary and imprecise in their execution, but more quantitative, yet simple and high-throughput methods to evaluate these cell wall polymers are not yet readily available.