Terroir aspects in development of quality of Egri bikavér

Abstract

Egri Bikavér (Bull’s Blood) is one of the most remarkable Hungarian red wines on inland and foreign markets as well. From the end of the 70’s the quality of Egri Bikavér was decreasing continually due to mass production. The concept of production of quality wines became general in the mid 90’s again and it resulted in a new Origin Control System, for the first time that of Egri Bikavér in Hungary. In the present study, the effects of different terroirs on wine quality are discussed in the case of Kékfrankos (Blaufränkisch) variety, which is the main component of the blending of Egri Bikavér. The experiments have been carried out in Eger wine region of Hungary. Soil characteristics, mesoclimate and phenological stages were examined at six growing sites. Grapevines in extreme growing sites were described with plant physiological parameters (net photosynthesis, water relations) and canopy structure was also studied. The grapes were harvested at the same time and winemaking technology was the same as well. Beyond the routine chemical analyses, the contents of anthocyanins and polyphenols were also analysed. During the sensory evaluation, the wines were described with radar plots of various parameters.

Remarkable differences were found between the growing sites based on the results of sensory and laboratory analyses. The differences can be explained by the results of soil properties, microclimate and plant physiological measurements. The results of this work may be helpful when the appellation origin control system of Egri Bikavér Superior Eger and Egri Bikavér Grand Superior « terroir » are to be developed.

DOI:

Publication date: January 12, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2006

Type: Article

Authors

Lajos GAL (1), Sándor ORBAN (2), Tibor GAL (3), Tamás POK (3), Zoltán SZILAGYI (1), Erzsébet SZUCS (1), Zsolt ZSOFI (1) and Borbála BALO (1)

(1) Research Institute for Viticulture and Enology of the Ministry of Agriculture, Eger, H-3301 Eger, P.O. Box 83, Hungary
(2) College of Eszterházy Károly; H-3300 Eger, Eszterházy tér 1, Hungary
(3) Egri Bormíves Céh (Union of the Best Wine Makers of Eger); H-3300 Eger, Nagykőporos Str. 11, Hungary

Contact the author

Keywords

soil, microclimate, vine physiology, wine quality, AOC of Egri Bikavér

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2006

Citation

Related articles…

Grape byproducts as source of resveratrol oligomers for the development of antifungal extracts

Grape canes are a non-recycled byproduct of wine industry (1-5 tons per hectare per year) containing valuable phytochemicals of medicine and agronomical interest. Resveratrol and wine polyphenols are known to exert a plethora of health-promoting effects including antioxidant capacity, cardioprotection, anticancer activity, anti-inflammatory effects, and estrogenic/antiestrogenic properties (Guerrero et al. 2009). Additionally, resveratrol is a major phytoalexin produced by plants in response to various stresses and promotes disease resistance (Chang et al. 2011). Our project aims to develop polyphenol-rich grape cane extracts to fight phytopathogenic or clinically relevant fungi. We initiate the project with the development of analytical methods to analyze resveratrol mono- and oligomers (dimers, trimers and tetramers) from grape canes and we evaluate their potential activity against clinically relevant opportunistic fungal pathogens (Houillé et al. 2014).

Barrels ad-hoc: Spanish oak wood classification by NIRs 

The wooden barrel is a key factor in enology, since wine chemical composition and sensory properties changes significantly in contact with the barrel[1]. Today’s highly competitive market constantly demands new differentiated products and wineries search innovations continuously.
Wood selection is crucial: barrels stability to keep constant their contribution and the result on products, and additional and differentiated wood contributions to impact their new products. Oak wood selection has traditionally been carried out using parameters such as specie, location and grain, however, it goes one step further nowadays. Large cooperage work with non-destructive techniques that allow classifying oak wood quickly and easily according to their organoleptic contribution[2].

Soluble solids and firmness responses of a very slow ripening mutant to ripening acceleration treatments

Wine grapes have the ability to accumulate high amounts of hexoses (glucose and fructose), which is considered one of the main processes occurring during the ripening stage. Sugar accumulation dynamics respond to genetic, environmental and vineyard management factors, with a changing climate leading to advanced and faster sugar accumulation worldwide. Research on mitigation techniques to this phenomenon is ongoing, with the largest focus being vineyard techniques to delay sugar accumulation. Breeding represents another powerful tool to address the issue of high sugar concentration at harvest, since historical trends of selecting best sugar-accumulators may be inverted to breed varieties that accumulate diminished concentrations of hexoses while maintaining optimal acidity, color, mouthfeel and aroma compounds.

Deconstructing the soil component of terroir: from controversy to consensus

Wine terroir describes the collectively recognized relation between a geographical area and the distinctive organoleptic characteristics of the wines produced in it. The overriding objective in terroir studies is therefore to provide scientific proof relating the properties of terroir components to wine quality and typicity. In scientific circles, the role of climate (macro-, meso- and micro-) on grape and wine characteristics is well documented and accepted as the most critical. Moreover, there has been increasing interest in recent years about new elements with possible importance in shaping wine terroir like berry/leaf/soil microbiology or even aromatic plants in proximity to the vineyard conferring flavors to the grapes. However, the actual effect of these factors is also dependent on complex interactions with plant material (variety/clone, rootstock, vine age) and with human factors.
The contribution of soil, although a fundamental component of terroir and extremely popular among wine enthusiasts, remains a much-debated issue among researchers. The role of geology is probably the one mostly associated by consumers with the notion of terroir with different parent rocks considered to give birth to different wine styles. However, the relationship between wine properties and the underlying parent material raises a lot of controversy especially regarding the actual existence of rock-derived flavors in the wine (e.g. minerality). As far as the actual soil properties are concerned, the effect of soil physical properties is generally regarded as the most significant (e.g sandy soils being associated with lighter wines while those on clay with colored and tannic ones) mostly through control of water availability which ultimately modifies berry ripening conditions either directly by triggering biosynthetic pathways, or indirectly by altering vigor and yield components. The role of soil chemistry seems to be weakly associated to wine sensory characteristic, although N, K, S and Ca, but also soil pH, are often considered important in the overall soil effect.
Recently, in the light of evidence provided by precision agriculture studies reporting a high variability of vineyard soils, the spatial scale should also be taken into consideration in the evaluation of the soil effects on wines. While it is accepted that soil effects become more significant than climate on a local level, it is not clear whether these micro-variations of vineyard soils are determining in the terroir effect. Moreover, as terroir is not a set of only natural factors, the magnitude of the contribution of human-related factors (irrigation, fertilization, soil management) to the soil effect still remains ambiguous. Lastly, a major shortcoming of the majority of works about soil effects on wine characteristics is the absence of connection with actual vine physiological processes since all soil effects on grape and wine chemistry and sensorial properties are ultimately mediated through vine responses.
This article attempts to breakdown the main soil attributes involved in the terroir effect to suggest an improved understanding about soil’s true contribution to wine sensory characteristics. It is proposed that soil parameters per se are not as significant determining factors in the terroir effect but rather their mutual interactions as well as with other natural and human factors included in the terroir concept. Consequently, similarly to bioclimatic indices, composite soil indices (i.e. soil depth, water holding capacity, fertility, temperature etc), incorporating multiple soil parameters, might provide a more accurate and quantifiable means to assess the relative weight of the soil component in the terroir effect.

Novel ATR-FTIR and UV-Vis spectral markers for assessing the Prooxidant/Antioxidant Balance (PAB) in white wines

The browning index (BI), based on the absorbance at 420 nm, is a common oxidation marker in white wines, typically measured after thermal stress (50–60 °C for 5 up to 12 days) in air-saturated wines.