Observatoire Grenache en Vallée du Rhône: incidence du terroir sur certains précurseurs d’arômes et substances volatiles

The historical Tokaj region in northeast Hungary is a UNESCO World Heritage region since 2002 owning 5.500 ha vineyards. Produced from „noble rot” grapes, Tokaji Aszú is known as one of the oldest botrytized wines all over the world. Special microclimatic conditions (due to Bodrog and Tisza rivers, Indian summer), soil circumstances (clay, loess on volcanic bedrock) and grape-varieties (Furmint, Hárslevelű) of Tokaj-region offer favourable parameters to the formation of noble rot caused by Botrytis cinerea. The special metabolic activity of Botrytis results in noble rot grapes called “aszú” berries. The grapes undergo complex chemical modifications as the joint result of the enzymatic activity of Botrytis and the physical process of concentration.

Different separation techniques are frequently used during vinification process. Nowadays, clarification and microbiological stabilization of wine or beer can be done using precoat filters or crossflow filters to remove yeast and bacteria. Kieselguhr powders are the most used filter aids for precoat filtration. Their crystalline structure and their pulverulent nature induce ecotoxicological risks when used. Moreover, regeneration and reuse of these filter aids is not efficient and the filtration waste requires cost effective retreatment.

Excessive fertilization of the vineyard leads to low quality grapes, increased costs and a negative impact on the environment. In order to establish an integrated management system aimed at a sustainable fertilization of the vineyards, nutritional reference levels were established. For this purpose, 30 representative vineyards of the Albariño variety were studied, in which soil and petiole analyses were carried out for two years and grape yield and quality at harvest were measured. In both years of study, soil pH, calcium, sodium and cation exchange capacity were positively correlated with calcium content and negatively correlated with manganese in grapes. Irrigated vineyards had higher levels of aluminium in soil and lower levels of calcium in petiole. Climatic conditions were very different in the years of the study. The year 2019 was colder than usual, in 2020 there was a marked water stress with high summer temperatures. This resulted in medium-high acidity in grapes in 2019 and low acidity in 2020, with sugar levels being similar both years. A very marked decrease in must amino nitrogen was observed in 2020, with ammonia nitrogen remaining stable. The correlation of acidity and sugar values in grapes with soil and petiole analysis data made it possible to establish reference levels for the nutritional diagnosis of the Albariño variety in this region. Based on these results, an easy-to-use TIC application is currently being created for grapegrowers, aimed at improving the sustainability of the vineyard through reasoned fertilization. This study has now been extended to other Galician vine varieties.

Anthocyanins are responsible for the red wine color and their ability to condense with tannins is considered as a contributor in astringency reduction. However, recent studies showed the possibility of anthocyanins to influence directly the in-mouth perception of wines.

The chemistry of wine oxidation is captured in the reactions between the oxidation products, mostly reactive electrophiles, with other wine constituents. An understanding of both components and their reactions can lead to ideas and techniques to control and mitigate or enhance these reactions to allow for the desired development of the wine. Current investigations are yielding much useful information about oxidation reactions in wine.