WAC 2022 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 WAC 9 WAC 2022 9 2 - WAC - Oral presentations 9 “Vinhos de mesa” et oenophilie : quand les caractéristiques organoleptiques des cépages américains empêchent l’intégration des consommateurs à l’univers de l’appréciation esthétique

“Vinhos de mesa” et oenophilie : quand les caractéristiques organoleptiques des cépages américains empêchent l’intégration des consommateurs à l’univers de l’appréciation esthétique

Abstract

Au Brésil, 80 % du vignoble national et 90 % du vignoble de l’État du Rio Grande do Sul (principale région productrice de vins dans le pays) sont plantés avec des cépages issus de vitis labrusca ou de cépages hybrides (DEBASTIANI, 2015). Une partie de cette production est utilisée pour la préparation de jus de raisin et de concentrés de moût ou de pulpe de raisin. Le restant est consacré à la fabrication des « vinhos de mesa » (vins de table) produits très souvent en demi-sec ou doux. À titre de comparaison en 2018, l’État du Rio Grande do Sul a produit 218 millions de litres de vinhos de mesa contre seulement 38 millions de litres de vins fins issus de cépages européens vitis vinifera (EMBRAPA, 2020). Les chiffres de commercialisation sont semblables à ceux de la production (ibid.).

Bien que la consommation de vins fins ne représente qu’entre un tiers et un quart de la consommation de vin au Brésil (ibid.), elle détient le monopole du discours normatif à propos du vin (RECKINGER, 2012). Le discours dirigé aux groupes d’œnophiles hisse le vin en tant que produit esthétiquement appréciable puisqu’il véhicule un message à être interprété (CHARTERS et PEETIGREW, 2005 ; SIBLEY, 2001 ; KOCH, 2021). Nous avons alors un problème d’incompréhension de codes puisque l’expérience sensorielle de goûter le vin se trouve étroitement liée à la maîtrise d’un vocabulaire spécifique permettant d’émettre un jugement esthétique à propos du breuvage qui sera reconnu et accepté par les paires (ibid.).

Nous avons alors une triple barrière à l’intégration du buveur de « vinhos de mesa » à l’univers de l’œnophilie : d’abord un discours qui exclut d’emblée toute boisson non issue de vitis vinifera ; des goûts et des mots qui ne trouvent pas d’écho dans l’expérience vécue par le consommateur ; des représentations distinctes entre les pratiques œnophiles minoritaires et les rituels hédonistes purement sensoriels des consommateurs non-éclairés (KOCH, 2021).

Cette communication se donne comme objectif de revenir sur la discussion du vin comme objet esthétique. Nous voulons jeter de la lumière sur les limites que cette pratique peut avoir lors qu’une topique socioculturelle (DURAND, 1994) spécifique n’est pas prise en compte. Le cas de « vinhos de mesa » brésilien sert d’illustration de la nécessité de s’établir une « traduction » inclusive des imaginaires et des pratiques consommatoires.

DOI:

Publication date: June 13, 2022

Issue: WAC 2022

Type: Article

Authors

Felipe Koch

Presenting author

Felipe Koch – Université Paris-Est Créteil

Université Paris-Est Créteil

Contact the author

Keywords

vinho de mesa, esthétique, cépages américains, discours, dégustation

Tags

IVES Conference Series | WAC 2022

Citation

Related articles…

Second pruning as a strategy to delay maturation in cv. ‘Touriga nacional’ in the Portuguese Douro region

The advance in maturation of wine grapes is an important climate change risk related effect that could affect warm regions like Portuguese Douro Wine Region. Indeed, the climate analysis over the past years registered a decrease in the precipitation, significant higher average temperatures, and a more frequent occurrence of extreme weather events, including heat waves. In these conditions the length from anthesis until maturation is shortened and the uncoupling of technical and phenolic maturity results in berries with higher sugar concentration (and lower acidity), but lower anthocyanins, tannins, and total phenolic concentration, which produce unbalanced wines.
In this work, an innovative strategy of crop forcing, based on forcing vine regrowth after a second pruning of green shoots, was tested, aimed at delaying ripening until the temperature becomes lower and, therefore, preventing acidity loss and increasing anthocyanin-to-sugar ratio. The experiments were conducted in 2019 and 2020 in a commercial vineyard of ‘Touriga Nacional’ located in the Douro Region. Crop forcing was conducted 15 (CF1) to 30 (CF2) days after fruit set. Vines pruned with conventional methods were used as control (CF0). Results confirmed that fruit ripening was shifted from the hot season (August/September), until a cooler period (October through early-November). At harvest, grapevine berries from CF1 and CF2 presented lower pH and higher acidity, than control, with no significant differences in colour intensity and phenolic levels composition. Sugar content was lower in CF2-treated vines in both seasons. However, in CF-treated vines the number and size of clusters were significantly lower (up to 88% reduction) than in control plants. A metabolomics analysis of mature berries from CF-treated vines and control is underway. Crop forcing was indeed effective in producing a more balance berry composition but severely reduced grapevine yield,

Mesoclimate impact on Tannat in the Atlantic terroir of Uruguay

The study of climate is relevant as an element conditioning the typicity of a product, its quality and sustainability over the years. The grapevine development and growth and the final grape and wine composition are closely related to temperature, while climate components vary at mesoscale according to topography and/or proximity to large bodies of water. The objective of this work is to assess the mesoclimate of the Atlantic region of Uruguay and to determine the effect of topography and the ocean on temperature and consequently on Tannat grapevine behavior.

An analytical framework to site-specifically study climate influence on grapevine involving the functional and Bayesian exploration of farm data time series synchronized using an eGDD thermal index

Climate influence on grapevine physiology is prevalent and this influence is only expected to increase with climate change. Although governed by a general determinism, climate influence on grapevine physiology may present variations according to the terroir. In addition, these site-specific differences are likely to be enhanced when climate influence is studied using farm data. Indeed, farm data integrate additional sources of variation such as a varying representativity of the conditions actually experienced in the field. Nevertheless, there is a real challenge in valuing farm data to enable grape growers to understand their own terroir and consequently adapt their practices to the local conditions. In such a context, this article proposes a framework to site-specifically study climate influence on grapevine physiology using farm data. It focuses on improving the analysis of time series of weather data. The analytical framework includes the synchronization of time series using site-specific thermal indices computed with an original method called Extended Growing Degree Days (eGDD). Synchronized time series are then analyzed using a Bayesian functional Linear regression with Sparse Steps functions (BLiSS) in order to detect site-specific periods of strong climate influence on yield development. The article focuses on temperature and rain influence on grape yield development as a case study. It uses data from three commercial vineyards respectively situated in the Bordeaux region (France), California (USA) and Israel. For all vineyards, common periods of climate influence on yield development were found. They corresponded to already known periods, for example around veraison of the year before harvest. However, the periods differed in their precise timing (e.g. before, around or after veraison), duration and correlation direction with yield. Other periods were found for only one or two vineyards and/or were not referred to in literature, for example during the winter before harvest.

The plantation frame as a measure of adaptation to climate change

The mechanization of vineyard work originally led to a reduction in planting densities due to the lack of machinery adapted to the vineyard. The current availability of specific machinery makes it possible to establish higher planting densities. In this work, three planting densities (1.40×0.80 m, 1.80×1 m and 2.20×1.20 m, corresponding to 8928, 5555 and 3787 plants/ha respectively) were studied with four varieties autochthonous of Galicia (northwestern Spain): Albariño and Treixadura (white), Sousón and Mencía (red). The vines were trained in a vertical shoot positioning system using a single Royat cordon, and pruned to spurs with two buds each. Agronomic data (yield, pruning wood weight, Ravaz index) and oenological data in must were collected. The higher planting density (1.40×0.80 m) had no significant effect on grape yield per vine in white varieties, although production per hectare was much higher due to the greater number of plants. In red varieties, this planting density resulted in a significantly lower production per vine, compensated by the greater number of plants. In addition, it significantly reduced the Brix degree in the must of the Albariño, Treixadura and Sousón varieties, and increased the total acidity in the latter two and Mencía. It also caused an increase in extractable and total anthocyanins and IPT in red grapes. The effects of high planting density on grapes are of great interest for the adaptation of varieties in the context of climate change. In the future, it could be advisable to modify the limits imposed by the appellations of origin on the planting density of these varieties in order to obtain more balanced wines.

Use of a new, miniaturized, low-cost spectral sensor to estimate and map the vineyard water status from a mobile 

Optimizing the use of water and improving irrigation strategies has become increasingly important in most winegrowing countries due to the consequences of climate change, which are leading to more frequent droughts, heat waves, or alteration of precipitation patterns. Optimized irrigation scheduling can only be based on a reliable knowledge of the vineyard water status.

In this context, this work aims at the development of a novel methodology, using a contactless, miniaturized, low-cost NIR spectral tool to monitor (on-the-go) the vineyard water status variability. On-the-go spectral measurements were acquired in the vineyard using a NIR micro spectrometer, operating in the 900–1900 nm spectral range, from a ground vehicle moving at 3 km/h. Spectral measurements were collected on the northeast side of the canopy across four different dates (July 8th, 14th, 21st and August 12th) during 2021 season in a commercial vineyard (3 ha). Grapevines of Vitis vinifera L. Graciano planted on a VSP trellis were monitored at solar noon using stem water potential (Ψs) as reference indicators of plant water status. In total, 108 measurements of Ψs were taken (27 vines per date).

Calibration and prediction models were performed using Partial Least Squares (PLS) regression. The best prediction models for grapevine water status yielded a determination coefficient of cross-validation (r2cv) of 0.67 and a root mean square error of cross-validation (RMSEcv) of 0.131 MPa. This predictive model was employed to map the spatial variability of the vineyard water status and provided useful, practical information towards the implementation of appropriate irrigation strategies. The outcomes presented in this work show the great potential of this low-cost methodology to assess the vineyard stem water potential and its spatial variability in a commercial vineyard.