Influence of the agronomic management on the aroma of Riesling wines

The genetic material preservation is a priority issue in winemaking research. The recovery of minority grape varieties can control the genetic erosion, contributing also to preserve wine typical characteristics. In D.O.Ca. Rioja (Spain) the number of grown white varieties has been very limited, representing Viura the 91% of the cultivated white grape area in 2005, while the others, Garnacha Blanca and Malvasía riojana, hardly were grown. For this reason, a recovery and characterization study of plant material was carried out in this region. In 2008, the results obtained allowed the authorization of three minority white varieties: Tempranillo Blanco, Maturana Blanca and Turruntés.

Far from complicated discussions on the relevant way to define « terroir », this article deals with the social perception that French young adults (aged from 18 to 30) have of this concept and the way it can help them to become wine consumers.

Current climate change is increasing inter- and intra-annual variability in atmospheric conditions leading to grapevine phenological shifts as well altered grape ripening and composition at ripeness. This study aims to (i) detect weather anomalies within a long-term time series, (ii) model grape ripening revealing altered traits in time to target specific ripeness thresholds for four Vitis vinifera cultivars, and (iii) establish empirical relationships between ripening and weather anomalies with forecasting purposes. The Day of the Year (DOY) to reach specific grape ripeness targets was determined from time series of sugar concentrations, total acidity and pH collected from a private company in the period 2009-2021 in North-Eastern Italy. Non-linear models for the DOY to reach the specified ripeness thresholds were assessed for model efficiency (EF) and error of prediction (RMSE) in four grapevine cultivars (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Glera and Garganega). For each vintage and cultivar, advances or delays in DOY to target specified ripeness thresholds were assessed with respect to the average ripening dynamics. Long-term meteorological series monitored at ground weather station by means of hourly air temperature and rainfall data were analyzed. Climate statistics were obtained and for each time period (month, bimester, quarter and year) weather anomalies were identified. A linear regression analysis was performed to assess a possible correlation that may exist between ripening and weather anomalies. For each cultivar, ripeness advances or delays expressed in number of days to target the specific ripening threshold were assessed in relation to registered weather anomalies and the specific reference time period in the vintage. Precipitation of the warmest month and spring quarter are key to understanding the effect of climate change on sugar ripeness. Minimum temperatures of May-June bimester and maximum temperatures of spring quarter best correlate with altered total acidity evolution and pH increment during the ripening process, respectively.

Molecular markers of wine oxydation, such as sotolon or Strecker’s aldehydes that induce respectively nut or curry and boiled vegetables or wilted rose odors, can be percieved as a default by consumers. These volatile compounds are especially formed during the premature aging of wine, but it is likely that several contributing compounds are still unknown as is their combined contribution. This study was carried out to identify the markers of oxydation in Chardonnay wine by Gas Chromatography Olfactometry (GC-O) and to study the impact of these markers on the complex wine aromatic buffer using the Olfactoscan approach.A Chardonnay wine (2018-vintage), taken after malolactic fermentation without sulphites addition, was submitted to an artificial oxidation to simulate more or less prononced premature oxidation. Volatile compounds were extracted by Solid-Phase Extraction (SPE) and analysed by GC-O with a panel of 13 trained subjects. The same extract was also submitted to a second analysis based on the Olfactoscan technique, which allowed to evaluate the impact of each volatile compounds on the complex aromatic buffer of a non-oxidized wine delivered as background odor. Preliminary results revealed three types of behavior. On the one hand, several odor zones appeared only with the background odour, suggesting a synergy effect induced by the compounds in the aromatic buffer. Conversely, odor-active compounds could not be perceived within the background odor suggesting a masking effect. Finally several compounds were found to contribute as key odorants for wine oxydation once mixed with the aromatic buffer. These compounds are still to be identified using complementary techniques.

One cultivar could produce distinct wines with typical properties and qualities different depending on its cultivated and its mesoclimatic conditions.