“Terroir” and climate change in Franconia / Germany

Sensory analysis of grape berries is a common tool to evaluate the degree of grape maturation and to make sound picking decisions.

In a previous zoning program (1998-2002), climatic and pedological factors were able to distinguish 14 terroir within the Soave DOC area where wine characteristics are well recognizable. Nevertheless, in the past vinegrowers identified several vineyards where a better quality of the grapes and wines could be obtained. So, « beyond the zonation » will aim to suggest a new methodology to characterise the Cru, starting with 15 vineyards that were selected in the Soave Classico DOC area. In the year 2005, a meteorological station was positioned in each vineyard and temperature data were collected; because of the limited area of investigation, only 3 rain sensors were set up.

The aging potential of Burgundy chardonnay wines is considered as quality indicator. However, some of them exhibit higher oxidative sensitivity and premature oxidative aging symptoms, which are potentially induced by no-enzymatic oxidation such as Fenton-type reaction (Danilewicz, 2003). This chemical mechanism involves the action of transition metal, native phenolic compounds and oxygen which promote the generation of highly reactive oxygen species (ROS) such as hydroxyl radicals (OH) or 1-hydroxyethyl radicals (1-HER) from oxidation of ethanol. Such mechanism is involved in the radical oxidation occurring during bottle aging. According to Elias et al.,(2009a), the 1-HER is the most abundant radical in forced oxidation treated wines. Consequently, understanding its evolution kinetic in dry white wines is of great importance.

Globalisation and climate change have radically transformed world wine production upsetting the established order of wine ecologies. Ecological risks and the future of traditional agricultural systems are widely debated in anthropology, but very little is understood of the particular challenges posed by climate change to viticulture which is seen by many as the canary in the coalmine of global agriculture. Moreover, wine as a globalised embedded commodity provides a particularly telling example for the study of climate change having already attracted early scientific attention. Studies of climate change in viticulture have focused primarily on the production of systematic models of adaptation and vulnerability, while the human and cultural factors, which are key to adaptation and sustainable futures, are largely missing. Climate experts have been unanimous in recognising the urgent need for a better understanding of the complex dynamics that shape how climate change is experienced and responded to by human systems. Yet this call has not yet been addressed. Climate ethnography, coined by the anthropologist Susan Crate (2011), aims to bridge this growing disjuncture between climate science and everyday life through the exploration of the social meaning of climate change. It seeks to investigate the confrontation of its social salience in different locations and under different environmental guises (Goodman 2018: 340). By understanding how wine producers make sense of the world (and the environment) and act in it, it proposes to focus on the co-production of interdisciplinary knowledge by identifying and foreshadowing problems (Goodman 2018: 342; Goodman & Marshall 2018). It seeks to offer an original, transformative and contrasted perspective to climate change scenarios by investigating human agency -individual or collective- in all its social, political and cultural diversity. An anthropological approach founded on detailed ethnographies of wine production is ideally placed to address economic, social and cultural disruptions caused by the emergence of these new environmental challenges. Indeed, the community of experts in environmental change have recently called for research that will encompass the human dimension and for more broad-based, integrated through interdisciplinarity, useful knowledge (Castree & al 2014). My paper seeks to engage with climate ethnography and discuss what it brings to the study of wine environmental futures while exploring the limitations of the anthropological environmental approach.

We report the effects of different drip irrigation treatments on the agronomic performance and water relations of Tempranillo grapevines, pruned to a bilateral cordon