Terroir 2010 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Il Lambrusco reggiano e il territorio di pianura: un modello efficace

Il Lambrusco reggiano e il territorio di pianura: un modello efficace

Abstract

[English version below]

Il caso “Lambrusco” è emblematico di un buon connubio tra un gruppo di vitigni ed un territorio di pianura caratterizzato da suoli fertili e alluvionali, che determinano un elevato sviluppo vegetativo e produttivo delle piante e peculiari risposte qualitative.
In queste particolari condizioni pedoclimatiche, si producono diversi vini “Lambrusco”, a partire dagli omonimi vitigni di origine, legati tra loro dalle comuni origini selvatiche e dal buon grado di parentela, come dimostrato dalle recenti analisi genetiche.
Il vino Lambrusco del territorio di Reggio Emilia, prodotto in varie tipologie, è ottenuto da uvaggi di diversi lambruschi, ed è tipicamente frizzante, caratterizzato da una elevata componente acidica e da profumi freschi e giovani.
La viticoltura reggiana, grazie alla notevole abbondanza sul territorio di antiche varietà, è una viticoltura basata esclusivamente sulla coltivazione di vitigni autoctoni.
Le strutture produttive e di tutela presenti sul territorio, nonché le scelte colturali effettuate, hanno giocato un ruolo importante nel garantire solidità alla produzione e rispondere alle esigenze di mercato, per cui il Lambrusco rappresenta oggi, come già da molti anni, uno dei vini varietali italiani più esportati nel mondo e più importanti del panorama italiano.

“Lambrusco” is a typical example of good relationship between a group of grape cultivars and the territory where they are grown: alluvial plain characterized by fertile soils, stimulating high vigour and yield and characteristic qualitative traits.
In these peculiar soil and climate conditions, well characterized “Lambrusco” wines are produced from homonymous grape cultivars, that are interlinked by common wild origin and high parentage degree, as revealed by recent genetic analysis.
The Lambrusco of Reggio Emilia, obtained from different Lambrusco cultivars, is a typically sparkling red wine, with high acidity and fresh and young fragrances, produced in different types and designations.
Viticulture in Reggio Emilia province is exclusively based on autochthonous cultivars, due to the presence of many ancient grape varieties.
Productive and protection structures in this territory, together with cultivation choices, played and important role in ensuring soundness on production and reliable answers to market needs. As a consequence currently and since many years Lambrusco is one of the most important Italian varietal wines and one of the most exported worldwide.

DOI:

Publication date: December 3, 2021

Issue: Terroir 2010

Type: Article

Authors

S. Meglioraldi, M. Storchi

Consorzio per la tutela dei vini “Reggiano” e “Colli di Scandiano e di Canossa”
Via Gualerzi 8, Reggio Emilia

Contact the author

Keywords

Lambrusco, pianura, fertilità, autoctono, frizzante, mercato
Lambrusco, plain, fertility, autochthonous, sparkling, market

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2010

Citation

Related articles…

Influence of weather and climatic conditions on the viticultural production in Croatia

The research includes an analysis of the impact of weather conditions on phenological development of the vine and grape quality, through monitoring of four experimental cultivars (Chardonnay, Graševina, Merlot and Plavac mali) over two production years. In each experimental vineyard, which were evenly distributed throughout the regions of Slavonia and The Croatian Danube, Croatian Uplands,

Understanding graft union formation by using metabolomic and transcriptomic approaches during the first days after grafting in grapevine

Since the arrival of Phyloxera (Daktulosphaira vitifolia) in Europe at the end of the 19th century, grafting has become essential to cultivate Vitis vinifera. Today, grafting provides not only resistance to this aphid, but it used to adapt the cultivars according to the type of soil, environment, or grape production requirements by using a panel of rootstocks. As part of vineyard decline, it is often mentioned the importance of producing quality grafted grapevine to improve vineyard longevity, but, to our knowledge, no study has been able to demonstrate that grafting has a role in this context. However, some scion/rootstock combinations are considered as incompatible due to poor graft union formation and subsequently high plant mortality soon after grafting. In a context of climate change where the creation of new cultivars and rootstocks is at the centre of research, the ability of new cultivars to be grafted is therefore essential. The early identification of graft incompatibility could allow the selection of non-viable plants before planting and would have a beneficial impact on research and development in the nursery sector. For this reason, our studies have focused on the identification of metabolic and transcriptomic markers of poor grafting success during the first days/week after grafting; we have identified some correlations between some specialized metabolites, especially stilbenes, and grafting success, as well as an accumulation of some amino acids in the incompatible combination. The study of the metabolome and the transcriptome allowed us to understand and characterise the processes involved during graft union formation.

Aromatic maturity is a cornerstone of terroir expression in red wine

Harvesting grapes at adequate maturity is key to the production of high-quality red wines. Enologists and wine makers define several types of maturity, including technical maturity, phenolic maturity and aromatic maturity. Technical maturity and phenolic maturity are relatively well documented in the scientific literature, while articles on aromatic maturity are scarcer. This is surprising, because aromatic maturity is, without a doubt, the most important of the three in determining wine quality and typicity (including terroir expression). Optimal terroir expression can be obtained when the different types of maturity are reached at the same time, or within a short time frame. This is more likely to occur when the ripening takes place under mild temperatures, neither too cool, nor too hot. Aromatic expression in wine can be driven, from low to high maturity, by green, herbal, fresh fruit, ripe fruit, jammy fruit, candied fruit or cooked fruit aromas. Green and cooked fruit aromas are not desirable in red wines, while the levels of other aromatic compounds contribute to the typicity of the wine in relation to its origin. Wines produced in cool climates, or on cool soils in temperate climates, are likely to express herbal or fresh fruit aromas; while wines produced under warm climates, or on warm soils in temperate climates, may express ripe fruit, jammy fruit or candied fruit aromas. Growers can optimize terroir expression through their choice of grapevine variety. Early ripening varieties perform better in cool climates and late ripening varieties in warm climates. Additionally, maturity can be advanced or delayed by different canopy management practices or training systems.

Adapting the vineyard to climate change in warm climate regions with cultural practices

Since the 1980s global regime shift, grape growers have been steadily adapting to a changing climate. These adaptations have preserved the region-climate-cultivar rapports that have established the global trade of wine with lucrative economic benefits since the middle of 17th century. The advent of using fractions of crop and actual evapotranspiration replacement in vineyards with the use of supplemental irrigation has furthered the adaptation of wine grape cultivation. The shift in trellis systems, as well as pruning methods from positioned shoot systems to sprawling canopies, as well as adapting the bearing surface from head-trained, cane-pruned to cordon-trained, spur-pruned systems have also aided in the adaptation of grapevine to warmer temperatures. In warm climates, the use of shade cloth or over-head shade films not only have aided in arresting the damage of heat waves, but also identified opportunities to reduce the evapotranspiration from vineyards, reducing environmental footprint of vineyard. Our increase in knowledge on how best to understand the response of grapevine to climate change was aided with the identification of solar radiation exposure biomarker that is now used for phenotyping cultivars in their adaptability to harsh environments. Using fruit-based metrics such as sugar-flavonoid relationships were shown to be better indicators of losses in berry integrity associated with a warming climate, rather than solely focusing on region-climate-cultivar rapports. The resilience of wine grape was further enhanced by exploitation of rootstock × scion combinations that can resist untoward droughts and warm temperatures by making more resilient grapevine combinations. Our understanding of soil-plant-atmosphere continuum in the vineyard has increased within the last 50 years in such a manner that growers are able to use no-till systems with the aid of arbuscular mycorrhiza fungi inoculation with permanent cover cropping making the vineyard more resilient to droughts and heat waves. In premium wine grape regions viticulture has successfully adapted to a rapidly changing climate thus far, but berry based metrics are raising a concern that we may be approaching a tipping point.

Terroir analysis and its complexity

Terroir is not only a geographical site, but it is a more complex concept able to express the “collective knowledge of the interactions” between the environment and the vines mediated through human action and “providing distinctive characteristics” to the final product (OIV 2010). It is often treated and accepted as a “black box”, in which the relationships between wine and its origin have not been clearly explained. Nevertheless, it is well known that terroir expression is strongly dependent on the physical environment, and in particular on the interaction between soil-plant and atmosphere system, which influences the grapevine responses, grapes composition and wine quality. The Terroir studying and mapping are based on viticultural zoning procedures, obtained with different levels of know-how, at different spatial and temporal scales, empiricism and complexity in the description of involved bio-physical processes, and integrating or not the multidisciplinary nature of the terroir. The scientific understanding of the mechanisms ruling both the vineyard variability and the quality of grapes is one of the most important scientific focuses of terroir research. In fact, this know-how is crucial for supporting the analysis of climate change impacts on terroir resilience, identifying new promised lands for viticulture, and driving vineyard management toward a target oenological goal. In this contribution, an overview of the last findings in terroir studies and approaches will be shown with special attention to the terroir resilience analysis to climate change, facing the use and abuse of terroir concept and new technology able to support it and identifying the terroir zones.