Il Lambrusco reggiano e il territorio di pianura: un modello efficace

Light is responsible for adverse reactions in wine including the formation of unpleasant flavors, loss of vitamins or photodegradation of anthocyanins. Among them, the riboflavin degradation leads to the formation of undesirable volatile compounds, known as light-struck taste. These photo-chemical reactions could be avoided by simply using opaque packaging. However, most rosé wines are kept in transparent bottles due to different commercial reasons. Some agri-food waste extracts have been studied for their photoprotective action which turn to be highly correlated with phenolic content [1].

The OIV[i] defines terroir as a concept referring to an area in which collective knowledge of the interactions between the physical and biological environment (soil, topography, climate, landscape characteristics and biodiversity features) and vitivinicultural practices develops, providing distinctive wine characteristics. Those are perceptible in the taste of wine, which drives consumer preference and, therefore, wine’s value in the marketplace. Geographical indications (GI) are recognized regulatory constructs formalizing and protecting the nexus between wine taste and the terroir generating it. Despite considering updates, GIs do not consider the nexus as a dynamic one and do not anticipate change, namely of climate. Being climate a fundamental feature of terroir, it strongly impacts wine characteristics, such as taste. According to IPCC[ii], many widespread, rapid and unprecedented changes of climate occurred, some being irreversible over hundreds to thousands of years. Climatic shifts and atmospheric-driven extreme events have been widely reported worldwide. Recent climatic trends are projected to strengthen in upcoming decades, whereas extremes are expected to increase in frequency and intensity, forcing wines away from GI definitions. Geographical shifts of viticultural suitability are projected, often moving into regions and countries different from current ones. Some authors propose adaptation in viticulture, winemaking and product innovation. We show evidence of climate changing wine characteristics in the Douro valley, home of 270-year-old Port GI. We discuss herein resist or adapt stances for when climate changes the nexus between terroir and wine characteristics. Using the MED-GOLD[iii] dashboard, a tool allowing for easy visual navigation of past and future climates, we demonstrate how policymakers can identify future moments, throughout the 21st century under different emission scenarios, when GI specifications will likely need updates (e.g., boundaries, varieties) to reduce climate-change impacts.

La caractérisation objective des terroirs viticoles est nécessaire pour mieux comprendre les relations existantes entre les sols, la plante et la qualité de la production vinicole. Dans le cadre d’une recherche sur les terroirs viticoles du canton de Vaud – Suisse, un géorépertoire pédologique et agronomique a été conçu et réalisé.

In alcuni lavori condotti alcuni anni or sono, abbiamo analizzato per un verso le tendenze della domanda di prodotti enologici, ed il comportamento del consumatore, e per un altro verso le motivazioni alla base delle scelte dell’enoturista, ovvero di colui che va per vigne e cantine per fruire di risorse enogastronomiche.

In the face of climate change, new grapevine varieties will have to show an adaptive phenotypic plasticity to maintain production with erratic water resources, and still ensure the quality of the final product. Their selection requires a better knowledge of the genetic basis of those traits and of the elementary processes involved in their variability. ‘PlastiVigne’, an emblematic project of the Vinid’Occ key challenge, funded by the Occitanie Region (France), tackles this issue with innovative genomic and physiological tools implemented on a unique panel of grape genetic resources representing the genetic diversity of Vitis vinifera. A graph-pangenome is developed from a representative set of high-quality genomes to study the extent and impact of structural genome variations and chromosomal rearrangements in the rapid adaptation capacity of grapevine.