Proceedings of International Terroir Congress 1996

The need to classify the vineyards of an area according to the quality of its wines is not recent, but it is only in the last ten years that studies on the suitability of different areas for the cultivation of vineyard take on an integrated and interdisciplinary character (Boselli, 1991). The definition of the suitability of the environment is thus obtained by making the climatic, pedological, topographical and cultural information interact with the vegetative, productive and qualitative expression of the grape varieties.

In recent years, there has been a growing interest in characterizing the ecological environment of vineyard production, and the growing need to delimit and characterize with precision the different homogeneous viticultural units. This has allowed the development of new studies which have as their objective the Vineyard Zoning. The delimitation and characterization of wine-growing areas poses specific problems in Spain, not only linked to the specific characteristics of the territory, but also to the size, distribution and index of viticultural occupation in the designations of origin.

The Champagne vineyard extends over 35,300 ha under the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée, of which 30,000 are in production. It mainly covers 3 departments: in order of importance, Marne (68% of the appellation area), Aube (22%) and Aisne (10%), and more anecdotally Haute Marne and Seine and Mame. It is a young vineyard (for more than half of the surface, the winegrowers have the experience of only one generation of vines), and fragmented (more than half of the exploitations extend over less than 1 ha; the average size of a cadastral parcel is 12 ares).

Cette communication sera basée sur les résultats d’une étude auprès des consommateurs réalisée par la société G3 pour l’I.N.A.O. sur les attitudes des consommateurs vis à vis des produits de terroir et des A.O.C. et sur un mémoire de DEA soutenu par Monsieur J-C. DURIEUX à l’Université de Paris X Nanterre, consacré aux variables explicatives du comportement d’achat des vins A.O.C.

A set of Syrah plots covering a wide range of terroirs distributed in the vineyards of the Rhone Valley and the Mediterranean South is examined through their oenological and sensory characteristics. The multidimensional analysis of data leads to the following groupings: (1) A group of unstructured wines with a simple aromatic profile dominated by fruity-floral notes; they come from plots where the ripening conditions have been disturbed by unfavorable climatic conditions, or an excess harvest.

Franciacorta is a viticultural area which extends in the hills to the South of Iseo lake in Lombardy. It is particularly famous for the production of sparkling wines obtained mostly from Chardonnay and Pinot blanc and noir grapes. The name of this territory is of medieval origin and appeared for the first time in 1277 as “Franzacurta”, from the Latin “franchae curtes”, i.e. “tax-free” monasteries. It was geographically delimited in 1429, when it was a territory of the Republic of Venezia.

In this study macro and micro nutrients of plants (N = NH4 + NO3 , P, K, Ca, Na, Zn, Mn, Fe and Cu) were determined both in soil solution and bleeding sap and compared each other. Bleeding sap was collected from the nine varieties of grapevine Cvs. grafted on 5BB rootstock and grown in different soil conditions. For all varieties, plant nutrients content in bleeding sap as higher than in soil solution except for Ca and Na. While in soil solution Ca content was found at 10209 ppm, this value in bleeding sap was 49.20 ppm (Kozak Beyazy), 55.38 ppm (Trakya Ylkeren), 50.37 (Cardinal) and 74.27 ppm (Tekirdaô Çekirdeksizi) respectively. For the same varieties the Na values were as follows : 7.16 ppm (in soil solution) : 4.8, 3.23, 4.21,4.58 ppm (in bleeding sap) respectively. K content in bleeding sap was higher than in soil solution for a few varieties, and lower in some varieties. Traces of Fe and Cu were found in both media.

Approaching the notion of terroir wines at the level of consumption poses a problem due to the absence of a regulatory definition of the term terroir, which is not taken up either at Community level or at national level (the Consumer Code in particular does not define not the land). However, whatever definition is adopted for the terroir, we can retain at the consumer level an identification of the terroir through the different geographical mentions appearing on the labels or on the shelves of the wine shelf.

Dans la région des Coteaux du Layon, en Maine et Loire, l’effet terroir et son déterminisme sont étudiés dans le cadre de la production des vins liquoreux.
Ces vins sont le résultat d’une maturité poussée au delà de celle prévue par la nature afin de donner aux baies une teneur en sucre et en matière sèche très forte, pour mieux valoriser ces effets de la surmaturation, les baies sont récoltées selon la méthode des tries successives (Asselin et al, 1996). Ainsi, on ne récolte à chaque passage que les grains ayant atteint le niveau de concentration requis pour obtenir des vins à fort degré d’alcool avec des sucres résiduels.

Pour prévoir et gérer chaque année les principales caractéristiques de la maturation en Champagne, le CIVC (Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne) a développé un ensemble de moyens de prévision et d’information très performants qui permettent aux différents acteurs de la filière viti-vinicole de prendre en compte ces informations à l’échelle de chaque terroir communal pour la recherche d’une qualité optimale.

a) wine, a qualitative and user-friendly product, favors a visual support, even for a scientific study because it refers to the image of the terroir, in particular by its visible landscape. b) the vineyard landscape, which is fairly open by definition, favors this type of approach. c) the framework of the Terroir Test conducted by the URVV (INRA – Angers) comprises 15 micro-plots of 100 strains, and requires at this scale precise surveys of the environment, hence systematic shots, of the center of the plot, over 360°, at 50 mm intervals, at 1.70 m from the ground and horizontally.

The studies developed by INRA and UV, in Angers, concern wine-growing areas and their optimized management, both from an agro-viticultural and oenological point of view. Previous work (Morlat, 1989) made it possible to give a scientific dimension to the concept of viticultural terroir and demonstrated the considerable influence of this production factor on the quality and typicity of wines (Asselin et al, 1992 ) . A methodology for the integrated characterization of terroirs, based on the "Basic Terroir Natural Unit" (considered as the smallest spatial unit of territory usable in practice, and in which the response of the vine is homogeneous), has been development (Riou et al , 1995).

The "Terroirs d'Anjou" project led by the Agronomy sector of the Vine and Wine Research Unit of the INRA center in Angers aims to characterize the viticultural terroirs in a study area which includes 29 municipalities in the Maine et Loire and cuts across the Anjou, Coteaux du layon and Coteaux de l'Aubance appellation areas.

Depuis un an, nous essayons de mettre en place un projet de développement socio-économique et culturel d’une zone située essentiellement au sud de la Garonne et à cheval sur 3 départements (le Lot et Garonne, le Gers et le Tam et Garonne) et sur 2 régions (l’Aquitaine et Midi Pyrénées): le pays du Brulhois, “porte de la Gascogne”.

Face à l’enjeu d’affirmer et de mieux comprendre la spécificité des vins en relation avec leur origine, la notion de « terroir », avec la richesse de sens et la diversité des perspectives qui l’éclairent, se révèle la clef de voûte de la production et de la valorisation de vins personnalisés et typiques. Asseoir la connaissance des principaux terroirs de la Vallée du Rhône sur des bases autres que celles, jusqu’alors essentiellement empiriques, invoquées dans la seconde grande région française productrice de vins d’AOC, constitue un projet conforme à l’intérêt voué à cet enjeu d’actualité.