Proceedings of International Terroir Congress 1996

The grapes producing and wine making regions are différent in their use of agricultural, industrial or agroindustrial means. These means are quite often very original and/or specialised; and lately are also quite competitive. Such means are being defined with increased accuracy in the delimitation and definition of its characteristics (Paneque et al., 1996 a). Human action together with other Elements and Agents involved in the vine growing production (Reyner, 1989) over these means lead to agronomic systems with important characteristics. Finally, the transformation of the vine growing production, through different technologies (Fleet, 1992), results in the creation of products with a different acceptance and economical value in the market.

Cette communication sera basée sur les résultats d’une étude auprès des consommateurs réalisée par la société G3 pour l’I.N.A.O. sur les attitudes des consommateurs vis à vis des produits de terroir et des A.O.C. et sur un mémoire de DEA soutenu par Monsieur J-C. DURIEUX à l’Université de Paris X Nanterre, consacré aux variables explicatives du comportement d’achat des vins A.O.C.

A set of Syrah plots covering a wide range of terroirs distributed in the vineyards of the Rhone Valley and the Mediterranean South is examined through their oenological and sensory characteristics. The multidimensional analysis of data leads to the following groupings: (1) A group of unstructured wines with a simple aromatic profile dominated by fruity-floral notes; they come from plots where the ripening conditions have been disturbed by unfavorable climatic conditions, or an excess harvest.

In recent years, there has been a growing interest in characterizing the ecological environment of vineyard production, and the growing need to delimit and characterize with precision the different homogeneous viticultural units. This has allowed the development of new studies which have as their objective the Vineyard Zoning. The delimitation and characterization of wine-growing areas poses specific problems in Spain, not only linked to the specific characteristics of the territory, but also to the size, distribution and index of viticultural occupation in the designations of origin.

The worldwide reputation of Sauvignon Blanc has led technicians to ask themselves various questions about the cultivation of this variety: choice of the most suitable localities, the most effective agronomic strategies and the most appropriate wine-growing techniques, to bring out its particular aroma.

The "Terroirs d'Anjou" project led by the Agronomy sector of the Vine and Wine Research Unit of the INRA center in Angers aims to characterize the viticultural terroirs in a study area which includes 29 municipalities in the Maine et Loire and cuts across the Anjou, Coteaux du layon and Coteaux de l'Aubance appellation areas.

Massif and the first sedimentary formations of the western aureole of the Paris Basin. If it is found all over the world (California, Israel, South Africa), it is in this region that it best asserts its identity. It is one of the most interesting grape varieties due to the variety and complexity of the wines it can produce. It can give very dry or very sweet, still or sparkling wines, fresh when young and sublime when ageing, expressing the characteristics of each vintage as much as those of the terroir. The Chenin is a faithful witness of its geographical, geological, pedological and climatic environment; he is the foil of the land. It has strong aptitudes for the production of sweet wines conditioned by overripe grapes often botrytised in the AOC Coteaux du Layon.Massif and the first sedimentary formations of the western aureole of the Paris Basin. If it is found all over the world (California, Israel, South Africa), it is in this region that it best asserts its identity. It is one of the most interesting grape varieties due to the variety and complexity of the wines it can produce. It can give very dry or very sweet, still or sparkling wines, fresh when young and sublime when ageing, expressing the characteristics of each vintage as much as those of the terroir. The Chenin is a faithful witness of its geographical, geological, pedological and climatic environment; he is the foil of the land. It has strong aptitudes for the production of sweet wines conditioned by overripe grapes often botrytised in the AOC Coteaux du Layon.

Work aimed at understanding the relationship between a terroir, in the agronomic sense, and the physico-chemical characteristics of grapes or wine are numerous today, as evidenced by the program of this symposium. But for an economist, the central question remains to know how the terroir can intervene in the construction of the economic value of wine and in the differentiation of its prices. Is the terroir effect recognized by the end consumer or is it only an internal adjustment variable in the production systems? Through which indicators can this terroir effect be managed by the various operators in the sector? In the end, isn't it better to invoke a “territorial effect” that the actors can build, and of which the terroir would be one of the possible components?

It is not easy at first sight to give an exhaustive definition of the notion of terroir as it can be simplified or complicated at will. Thus the vagueness that surrounds this concept leaves the door open to various interpretations of the terroir. These tend towards a questionable level of objectivity because the fields they explore are not sufficient to explain the notion on their own, constituting only part of a whole.

Approaching the notion of terroir wines at the level of consumption poses a problem due to the absence of a regulatory definition of the term terroir, which is not taken up either at Community level or at national level (the Consumer Code in particular does not define not the land). However, whatever definition is adopted for the terroir, we can retain at the consumer level an identification of the terroir through the different geographical mentions appearing on the labels or on the shelves of the wine shelf.

A partir des recherches conduites sur la caractérisation des terroirs viticoles par des chercheurs de l’Unité de Recherches Vigne et Vin (1, 2, 3, 4, 5) du Centre INRA d’Angers, Terre des Sciences, le Centre de Culture Scientifique et Technique d’Angers (CCSTA) a mis au point un parcours de découverte d’une journée dans le vignoble angevin avec une approche pluridisciplinaire.

Ecological resources represent vegetation factors, or even production factors, in quantitative expression. These, used by plants, transformed and organized according to their genetic program, become the material components of biomass. Subsequently, the ecological resources can be used as synthetic indicators of the ecological supply, necessary for the analysis of favorability for the understanding of ecosystems.

The historian starts from a scientific, rigorous and recent definition of the wine-growing region. “A viticultural terroir is made up of several homogeneous units: geological and pedological elements (texture,
grain size, thickness, mineralogical nature, chemical components), geomorphological (altitude, slope, exposure), climatological (rainfall, temperature, insolation)”. Absent from this definition, the man is fortunately reintroduced a little further. By associating viticulture and winemaking, it forms a “couple” with the terroir and this couple.

The French viticultural appellation areas are the result of an empirical, historical and evolutionary selection which, generally, has consecrated a match between natural factors, grape varieties and viti-vinicultural practices. The notion of terroir is the main basis of the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée in viticulture. It is based on the one hand on privileged natural factors and on the other hand on the know-how of the winegrowers; the whole allowing the production of a wine endowed with an authenticity and a sensory typicity. Wine-growing practices evolve according to progress in viticulture and oenology, while the natural factors of the terroir are much more stable, with the exception of the vintage. They therefore represent a fundamental pillar of the identity of an appellation vineyard.

The reflections presented here are a synthesis of a set of research on the construction of a scientific logic concerning the relations between the terroir, the vine, the wine, and on the study of a product, the wine, considered as the resulting from many interactions between factors of various orders. This work has benefited greatly from discussions of an epistemological as well as a technical nature with all the researchers at URVV (Angers) and with our colleagues at the Institut National des Appellations d'Origine, over several years.