IVES Conference Series

The evolution of wine quality issues is historically expressed by the passage from wine quality (what is a wine?) to wine quality (what is a good wine?). Perhaps the next question could be: what is a good sustainable wine? To contribute to reflection on this theme, it may be worthwhile to undertake an exercise in prospective fiction, which we have identified in the hypothesis of the AOD, the “appellation d’origine durable”, a scenario we will develop in the light of developments in the wine industry and the regulation on geographical indications.

Fungus-resistant grape varieties (frgv) are an important field of research in viticulture, as they represent a way of reducing the use of copper-containing pesticides and thus minimising the environmental impact. The literature suggests that resistant grape varieties are a promising solution to the problem of using copper-containing pesticides in viticulture and that their quality has improved in recent years. However, there are still challenges in the acceptance and dissemination of FRGV by wine producers and consumers.

At a time when the world’s winegrowing industry is having to adapt to a number of challenges, winegrowers are wondering about the consequent changes they will have to make (grape varieties, changes in vineyard and cellar techniques). For winegrowers and consumers alike, there is also the question of how these changes will affect the taste of their wines. This research, based on the study of numerous sources and archives from the 20th century, some of which have never been published before, aims to show that, in the recent past, the winegrowing world has shown incredible resilience in the face of crises, and that the taste and perception of fine wines has changed considerably in 100 years.

Trends already extended for more than 12 years show a decline in both consumption and international trade, particularly in volume. However, there are also positive signs in several categories of wine, segments and markets, as well as a better trend in terms of value. How are these trends affecting wine producers and distributors? Are they short or long term? do they mean radical and permanent changes to which a way of adaptation has to be found or are they just temporary changes that may only require some calm? How are companies adapting to these new trends? Which are their effects on wine regions?

What if, in 25 years, most wines were dealcoholized and flavored ? What if vines were only cultivated to combat erosion, store carbon, and provide anthocyanins…? What if climate change completely changed the list of vine varieties cultivable for wine production in France? What if food stores had completely disappeared in favor of virtual platforms? And if… because the long-term future is not predetermined and therefore not knowable, because the future is open to several possibilities, because the future does not emerge from nothing but from the present which conceals heavy trends and weak signals, prospective approaches make it possible to consider the room for maneuver that actors have to promote the advent of a future, which we can hope to be chosen, at least in part.

A foresight study was carried out by a group of experts from INRAE, universities, INAO and FranceAgriMer from 2014 as part of the multidisciplinary “laccave” project intended to anticipate climate change in the French wine industry. The initial objective was to initiate an interdisciplinary dialogue between researchers and to feed their questions in a more systemic way. The scenario development method made it possible to build possible futures for the wine sector in the face of climate change. It began by drafting four adaptation strategies, combining different possible intensities of innovation and relocation of the vineyard.

In recent decades, sustainability has risen to prominence across various industries, including agriculture, spurred by initiatives such as the new common agricultural policy and the farm to fork strategy within the European Union. Among agricultural activities, viticulture stands as a crucial player in sustainability, intertwining environmental, social, and economic dimensions, as exemplified by the OIV general principles of sustainable viticulture. Italy, one of the main players in the global wine market, has long been making efforts towards the introduction of sustainability-oriented practices and certifications.

The sustainability certification ‘nachhaltig austria’ (www.sustainableaustria.com) has been offered to austrian wineries in an online version for 10 years and over 25% of the austrian wine-growing area is now certified. Since the 2022 harvest, ‘nachhaltig austria’ has automatically calculated the carbon footprint for each winery, per hectare of vineyard, per litre of bulk wine and per 0.75-litre bottle (poelz, w. And rosner, f.g. 2023). In last year’s publications and numerous presentations at national and international level, topics such as refilling glass bottles, lightweight glass bottles, renewable energy, … Etc.

There are fundamentally two different ways in which indications of geographical origin (igos) can be protected. The us approach favors the pre-existing trademark system through collective marks (cms), while the eu approach favors a maximalist approach via a sui generis system which promotes appellations of origin (aos). A consensus however emerges regarding the fundamental protection of origin against misleading, confusing and dilutive uses. Previous literature discusses these competing igo logics from historical, legal and international trade perspectives. In this paper, we depart from the field of social sciences, in particular from recent advancements in the well-established literature on proximities, in order to provide a reflection on the different logics underpinning the aos and cms systems.