Proceedings of International Terroir Congress 1996

Different “landscape unit” have been identified in Bolgheri area (a viticultural appellation in the Tirrenian coast of Tuscany) by the aid of pedological, landscape and agronomic observations in the 1992-1993 period. In all cultivar (Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) x landscape unit combinations, experimental plots were chosen in homogeneous vineyards, single cordon trained (about 3300-4500 vines/hectare). Grape maturation was studied by weekly samples of berries from veraison to vintage in the 1992-1995 period. At harvest yield and must composition traits were measured and, from the most représentative plots, sixty kilograms of grapes were harvested each year and vinified according to a standardised scheme. Wines were evaluated by standard chemical and sensory analyses.

Cette communication sera basée sur les résultats d’une étude auprès des consommateurs réalisée par la société G3 pour l’I.N.A.O. sur les attitudes des consommateurs vis à vis des produits de terroir et des A.O.C. et sur un mémoire de DEA soutenu par Monsieur J-C. DURIEUX à l’Université de Paris X Nanterre, consacré aux variables explicatives du comportement d’achat des vins A.O.C.

In addition to studies on the edaphic and landscape characteristics of the environment (Dolédec, 1995), the characterization of the physiology of the vine and of parasitism during its vegetative cycle represents an essential component of knowledge and management of the terroirs.

The influence of climatic conditions on the development of the vine and on the quality of the wines no longer needs to be demonstrated at the scale of the vineyard, by the regional climatic characteristics, determining on this scale the viticultural potentialities (Huglin, 1978; Branas, 1946; Riou et al ., 1994); but also on a local scale, at the level of the basic terroir unit (Morlat, 1989), by the landscape differentiation of the natural environment inducing climatic variability within the same vineyard, and partly explaining differences in functioning of the vine, in connection with the processes of maturation and the quality of the wine (Becker, 1977 and 1984; Morlat, 1989 and Lebon, 1993a). According to these authors, the climatic diversity in a wine region constitutes in addition to the edaphic component, an important component of characterization of the Basic Terroir Units (UTB).

In this study macro and micro nutrients of plants (N = NH4 + NO3 , P, K, Ca, Na, Zn, Mn, Fe and Cu) were determined both in soil solution and bleeding sap and compared each other. Bleeding sap was collected from the nine varieties of grapevine Cvs. grafted on 5BB rootstock and grown in different soil conditions. For all varieties, plant nutrients content in bleeding sap as higher than in soil solution except for Ca and Na. While in soil solution Ca content was found at 10209 ppm, this value in bleeding sap was 49.20 ppm (Kozak Beyazy), 55.38 ppm (Trakya Ylkeren), 50.37 (Cardinal) and 74.27 ppm (Tekirdaô Çekirdeksizi) respectively. For the same varieties the Na values were as follows : 7.16 ppm (in soil solution) : 4.8, 3.23, 4.21,4.58 ppm (in bleeding sap) respectively. K content in bleeding sap was higher than in soil solution for a few varieties, and lower in some varieties. Traces of Fe and Cu were found in both media.

The terroir offers great variability in the typicity of the wines produced. Following tastings integrating several vintages, the multiple factor analysis of the sensory data revealed a group of taste criteria contributing to the notion of "Power", referenced "Power and Harmony", which makes it possible to differentiate wines from various terroirs of the Middle Loire Valley (Pages et al ., 1987).

The grapes producing and wine making regions are différent in their use of agricultural, industrial or agroindustrial means. These means are quite often very original and/or specialised; and lately are also quite competitive. Such means are being defined with increased accuracy in the delimitation and definition of its characteristics (Paneque et al., 1996 a). Human action together with other Elements and Agents involved in the vine growing production (Reyner, 1989) over these means lead to agronomic systems with important characteristics. Finally, the transformation of the vine growing production, through different technologies (Fleet, 1992), results in the creation of products with a different acceptance and economical value in the market.

Over the past few decades, viticultural research has made numerous contributions which have made it possible to better understand the behavior of the vine as well as its response to the conditions imposed on it by the environment and agronomic practices. However, these results have only rarely been used in the practical management of vineyards because the research has been carried out using partial experimental models where reality is only represented by a few factors which are sometimes even made more complex by the introduction of elements foreign to the existing situation and difficult to apply to production (varieties, methods of cultivation, management techniques, etc.). To these reasons, one could add a low popularization of the results obtained, as well as the difficulty of implementing the scientific contributions, which does not allow the different production systems to fully express their potential. This limit of viticultural research can only be exceeded by the design of integrated projects designed directly on and for the territory. Indeed, only the integrated evaluation of a viticultural agro-system, which can be achieved through zoning, makes it possible to measure, or even attribute to each element of the system, the weight it exerts on the quality of the wine.

The Champagne vineyard extends over 35,300 ha under the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée, of which 30,000 are in production. It mainly covers 3 departments: in order of importance, Marne (68% of the appellation area), Aube (22%) and Aisne (10%), and more anecdotally Haute Marne and Seine and Mame. It is a young vineyard (for more than half of the surface, the winegrowers have the experience of only one generation of vines), and fragmented (more than half of the exploitations extend over less than 1 ha; the average size of a cadastral parcel is 12 ares).

The maturation patterns process has been very studied. In particular the modelization of the sugars and titratable acidity during the ripening period was an important approach, in particular for the prediction of harvest date (Barillere et al., 1988; Jourion et al.,1987; Maujean et al., 1983; Scienza, 1989). In Oltrepò Pavese, the widest viticultural district of Lombardy – Northern Italy – (about 15000 hectares), grape maturation trends shows high variability, due to the large variation in environmental characteristics of vineyards (altitude, exposure, soil type, mesoclimate) and to “cultivar x environment” interaction.

The Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée area of ​​Cahors (Lot) covers an area of ​​21,700 ha, spread over 45 municipalities, of which only 4,300 are planted with vines. The main grape variety of this AOC is the Cot noir which represents 70% of the grape varieties, thus giving their typicality to the wines of this region; but despite this importance, to our knowledge, its physiology has remained relatively unstudied.

Pour prévoir et gérer chaque année les principales caractéristiques de la maturation en Champagne, le CIVC (Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne) a développé un ensemble de moyens de prévision et d’information très performants qui permettent aux différents acteurs de la filière viti-vinicole de prendre en compte ces informations à l’échelle de chaque terroir communal pour la recherche d’une qualité optimale.

With the Federation of Wine Syndicates of Anjou and the Wine Syndicate of Angevin for direct sale to the Property, the Higher School of Agriculture of Angers was led to carry out, in 1995, a survey of winegrowers in Maine and Loire, with a view to grouping the supply of some of the wines intended for direct sale (Huet, 1995).

La diffusion récente et “explosive” du Chardonnay dans pratiquement toutes les zones de culture viticole du monde a fait penser, à tort, que cette variété s’adapte facilement à toutes les conditions pédo-climatiques ou presque. Cette thèse a été confirmée par la grande faculté d’adaptation dont a fait preuve le vignoble et par la popularité dont jouit le vin auprès des consommateur du monde entier.

A worrying drop in the acidity of wines has been observed in many wine regions, such as Bordeaux (Merlot), Burgundy (Pinot Noir), Côtes-du-Rhône (Grenache) or Rioja (Tempranillo). This lack of acidity is particularly marked in the Midi-Pyrenean vineyards of the Côtes du Frontonnais (Tournier, 1993). However, the acidity of a wine is one of the main factors of its quality, in fact, a low acidity combined with an insufficient tannic structure leads to rapid oxidation of wines and makes them age prematurely.