Proceedings of Terroir 1996

Cette recherche a eu pour but l’étude des effets d’un renforcement radiatif et thermique sur les zones inférieures de la canopée de la vigne (solarisation par des films ou des paillages réfléchissants installés sur le sol, sous les ceps), notamment l’étude de leurs conséquences sur la composition biochimique des moûts à la vendange et sur la qualité des vins.

Natural factors such as the environment in which the vine is grown play an important role in the quality of the wine. If you want to produce a good wine, it is indeed essential to produce quality grapes. To do this, we must enhance and optimize the terroir effect which, for the moment, plays a role that is not very well known. It is therefore essential, for example, to have scientifically established and well quantifiable relationships in order to have the system of areas of controlled origin accepted. R. Morlat (1989) and G. Seguin (1970) have already carried out studies on the role of certain soil factors on grape quality. In particular, they showed the importance of soil temperature and water content.

It is not easy at first sight to give an exhaustive definition of the notion of terroir as it can be simplified or complicated at will. Thus the vagueness that surrounds this concept leaves the door open to various interpretations of the terroir. These tend towards a questionable level of objectivity because the fields they explore are not sufficient to explain the notion on their own, constituting only part of a whole.

“The vine and the wine are great mysteries. Only the vine makes us intelligible what is the true flavor of the earth”. Colette. The notion of terroir has always been the basis of the notion of AOC from which it is inseparable. It is moreover the definition of the production zone which was at the start of the attempts to set up the designation of origin, at the beginning of the century, after the phylloxera crisis.

The studies developed by INRA and UV, in Angers, concern wine-growing areas and their optimized management, both from an agro-viticultural and oenological point of view. Previous work (Morlat, 1989) made it possible to give a scientific dimension to the concept of viticultural terroir and demonstrated the considerable influence of this production factor on the quality and typicity of wines (Asselin et al, 1992 ) . A methodology for the integrated characterization of terroirs, based on the "Basic Terroir Natural Unit" (considered as the smallest spatial unit of territory usable in practice, and in which the response of the vine is homogeneous), has been development (Riou et al , 1995).

The French viticultural appellation areas are the result of an empirical, historical and evolutionary selection which, generally, has consecrated a match between natural factors, grape varieties and viti-vinicultural practices. The notion of terroir is the main basis of the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée in viticulture. It is based on the one hand on privileged natural factors and on the other hand on the know-how of the winegrowers; the whole allowing the production of a wine endowed with an authenticity and a sensory typicity. Wine-growing practices evolve according to progress in viticulture and oenology, while the natural factors of the terroir are much more stable, with the exception of the vintage. They therefore represent a fundamental pillar of the identity of an appellation vineyard.

Le vigneron européen est de plus en plus à la recherche de la valorisation de son terroir par la personnalisation de la typicité de ses produits. Dans ce contexte, il est apparu depuis longtemps que la part des facteurs technologiques ou humains est d’une importance capitale face aux conditions de l’envirormement naturel. Le terroir se construit plus qu’il ne se subit.

La diffusion récente et “explosive” du Chardonnay dans pratiquement toutes les zones de culture viticole du monde a fait penser, à tort, que cette variété s’adapte facilement à toutes les conditions pédo-climatiques ou presque. Cette thèse a été confirmée par la grande faculté d’adaptation dont a fait preuve le vignoble et par la popularité dont jouit le vin auprès des consommateur du monde entier.

The need to classify the vineyards of an area according to the quality of its wines is not recent, but it is only in the last ten years that studies on the suitability of different areas for the cultivation of vineyard take on an integrated and interdisciplinary character (Boselli, 1991). The definition of the suitability of the environment is thus obtained by making the climatic, pedological, topographical and cultural information interact with the vegetative, productive and qualitative expression of the grape varieties.

The historian starts from a scientific, rigorous and recent definition of the wine-growing region. “A viticultural terroir is made up of several homogeneous units: geological and pedological elements (texture,
grain size, thickness, mineralogical nature, chemical components), geomorphological (altitude, slope, exposure), climatological (rainfall, temperature, insolation)”. Absent from this definition, the man is fortunately reintroduced a little further. By associating viticulture and winemaking, it forms a “couple” with the terroir and this couple.

En France, la notion de Terroir a largement contribué à la réputation de nombreux vignobles. Elle a permis aussi d’accentuer la sensibilité des consommateurs, à la notion d’origine d’un produit. L’avenir de nombreux vignobles français semble lié à la capacité à innover en produisant des vins de qualité possédant en plus une typicité, aspect sensoriel susceptible de s’affirmer comme un facteur de vente auprès des futurs clients éduqués sur le plan du goût.

Pinot noir is an interesting vat variety for the high quality products it provides in the most suitable areas. In France, the most important Pinot Noir growing areas are Burgundy, Champagne, Alsace and the Loire. In Italy, Pinot Noir is grown almost exclusively in the northern regions of Trentino-Alto Adige, Lombardy and Friuli-Venezia Giulia.

For several years, the development of computer resources, and in particular of Geographic Information Systems, have allowed the emergence of a new approach to the analysis and characterization of wine-growing areas (Morlat, 1989; Laville, 1990). These methods, which make it possible to identify homogeneous areas or units of terroir, are based on crossing, statistical analysis (in particular Principal Component Analysis: PCA) and the integration of parameters describing the natural environment in which develop the vine.

The maturation patterns process has been very studied. In particular the modelization of the sugars and titratable acidity during the ripening period was an important approach, in particular for the prediction of harvest date (Barillere et al., 1988; Jourion et al.,1987; Maujean et al., 1983; Scienza, 1989). In Oltrepò Pavese, the widest viticultural district of Lombardy – Northern Italy – (about 15000 hectares), grape maturation trends shows high variability, due to the large variation in environmental characteristics of vineyards (altitude, exposure, soil type, mesoclimate) and to “cultivar x environment” interaction.

a) wine, a qualitative and user-friendly product, favors a visual support, even for a scientific study because it refers to the image of the terroir, in particular by its visible landscape. b) the vineyard landscape, which is fairly open by definition, favors this type of approach. c) the framework of the Terroir Test conducted by the URVV (INRA – Angers) comprises 15 micro-plots of 100 strains, and requires at this scale precise surveys of the environment, hence systematic shots, of the center of the plot, over 360°, at 50 mm intervals, at 1.70 m from the ground and horizontally.