Proceedings of Terroir 1996

La diffusion récente et “explosive” du Chardonnay dans pratiquement toutes les zones de culture viticole du monde a fait penser, à tort, que cette variété s’adapte facilement à toutes les conditions pédo-climatiques ou presque. Cette thèse a été confirmée par la grande faculté d’adaptation dont a fait preuve le vignoble et par la popularité dont jouit le vin auprès des consommateur du monde entier.

Work aimed at understanding the relationship between a terroir, in the agronomic sense, and the physico-chemical characteristics of grapes or wine are numerous today, as evidenced by the program of this symposium. But for an economist, the central question remains to know how the terroir can intervene in the construction of the economic value of wine and in the differentiation of its prices. Is the terroir effect recognized by the end consumer or is it only an internal adjustment variable in the production systems? Through which indicators can this terroir effect be managed by the various operators in the sector? In the end, isn't it better to invoke a “territorial effect” that the actors can build, and of which the terroir would be one of the possible components?

For a long time environment was known as one of the most important factors to characterize the quality of wines but at the same time it appears very difficult to distinguish inside the “terroir” the role of the single factor. These remarks partially explain why methods for viticultural evaluation are often quite different (Amerine et al., 1944; Antoniazzi et al., 1986; Asselin et al., 1987; Astruc et al., 1980; Bonfils, 1977; Boselli, 1991; Colugnati, 1990; Costantinescu, 1967; Costantini et al., 1987; Dutt et al., 1981; Falcetti et al., 1992; Fregoni et al., 1992; Hidalgo, 1980; Intrieri et al., 1988; Laville, 1990; Morlat et al., 1991; Scienza et al., 1990; Shubert et al., 1987; Turri et al., 1991).

The "Terroirs d'Anjou" project led by the Agronomy sector of the Vine and Wine Research Unit of the INRA center in Angers aims to characterize the viticultural terroirs in a study area which includes 29 municipalities in the Maine et Loire and cuts across the Anjou, Coteaux du layon and Coteaux de l'Aubance appellation areas.

Les enzymes d’oxydation (polyphénoloxydase, peroxydase) des raisins sont d’origine génétique dépendantes des facteurs climatiques et agrotechniques (Sapis et al, 1983). Dans le processus technologique de l’obtention du moût de raisins, ces enzymes catalysent l’oxydation de certains composés phénoliques naturellement présents dans le raisin, produisant ainsi des modifications indésirables de la couleur et de l’arôme du vin.

Par le fait d’une politique agricole communautaire axée sur des objectifs de qualité des produits, la recherche et l’identification des critères de cette qualité deviennent impératives. En viticulture, la notion de qualité du produit est rattachée au concept théorique de «terroir». Ce terme englobe un ensemble de paramètres du milieu (géologie, sol, climat) influant sur la récolte.

L’utilisation de levures sélectionnées est généralement considérée comme le moyen d’éviter les problèmes fermentaires. Néanmoins de nombreux viticulteurs pensent que ces levures sont à l’origine d’une standardisation des vins et militent pour le respect d’une flore indigène (Bourguignon, 1992).

The analysis of the distribution of natural plant populations allows an ecological characterization of cultivated environments in thermal, water and trophic terms; it guides the choice or selection of plants (or grape varieties) to cultivate (Astruc et al ., 1984, 1987; Delpoux, 1971; Jacquinet and Astruc, 1979). This approach has given good results in areas where the topography is the determining factor in the ecological differentiation of the terroirs.

Ecological resources represent vegetation factors, or even production factors, in quantitative expression. These, used by plants, transformed and organized according to their genetic program, become the material components of biomass. Subsequently, the ecological resources can be used as synthetic indicators of the ecological supply, necessary for the analysis of favorability for the understanding of ecosystems.

A set of Syrah plots covering a wide range of terroirs distributed in the vineyards of the Rhone Valley and the Mediterranean South is examined through their oenological and sensory characteristics. The multidimensional analysis of data leads to the following groupings: (1) A group of unstructured wines with a simple aromatic profile dominated by fruity-floral notes; they come from plots where the ripening conditions have been disturbed by unfavorable climatic conditions, or an excess harvest.

The diversity of potential sources of damage to the terroir of an appellation (physical, aesthetic, ecological damage, damage to the image, to collective representation or even, in a broad concept which will not be retained here, to the geographical name identifying the terroir) is accompanied by a fragmentation of the legal sources allowing its protection.

During the 1985 harvest, I was able to notice in the taste perception a break in the harmony of the wine during even partial blends of grapes from different plots. At the same time, I noted a good reaction from customers for greater product customization. As a result, I was led to seek the objective limits of the terroir of a cuvée and by a constant and permanent refinement of the parameters specific to each of the terroirs.

Face à l’enjeu d’affirmer et de mieux comprendre la spécificité des vins en relation avec leur origine, la notion de « terroir », avec la richesse de sens et la diversité des perspectives qui l’éclairent, se révèle la clef de voûte de la production et de la valorisation de vins personnalisés et typiques. Asseoir la connaissance des principaux terroirs de la Vallée du Rhône sur des bases autres que celles, jusqu’alors essentiellement empiriques, invoquées dans la seconde grande région française productrice de vins d’AOC, constitue un projet conforme à l’intérêt voué à cet enjeu d’actualité.

The Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée area of ​​Cahors (Lot) covers an area of ​​21,700 ha, spread over 45 municipalities, of which only 4,300 are planted with vines. The main grape variety of this AOC is the Cot noir which represents 70% of the grape varieties, thus giving their typicality to the wines of this region; but despite this importance, to our knowledge, its physiology has remained relatively unstudied.

The quality of grapevines measured by yield and must density in the northern part of Europe -conditions can be characterized as a type of “cool climate” – vary strongly from year to year and from one production site to another, i.e. différences in must densities can range from 30 to 50 °Oe. An explanation may be changes of weather conditions during critical developmental stages of the grapevines (2, 3, 5). These can be categorized as “macro climatic” influences.