Proceedings of Terroir 1996

For several years, the development of computer resources, and in particular of Geographic Information Systems, have allowed the emergence of a new approach to the analysis and characterization of wine-growing areas (Morlat, 1989; Laville, 1990). These methods, which make it possible to identify homogeneous areas or units of terroir, are based on crossing, statistical analysis (in particular Principal Component Analysis: PCA) and the integration of parameters describing the natural environment in which develop the vine.

The jurist feels like an intruder when talking about terroirs. He looks at the press and tries to understand. We can read there about the cooking festival of May 30, 1996 which “..highlights products whose quality depends on a region”, that Camembert du pays d'Auge is the only one to be protected, I was thinking of camembert from Normandy, that 80% of Greek feta is made in the Netherlands, I thought it was in Denmark, and that the European Community protects geographical indications of IGP origin, probably a new category replacing the indications protected areas (1). I also learned that distributors are asking for more local products because “they come to confuse the cards in the part engaged with the big brands”. Carrefour has its “Terroirs and drawers”, Prisunic its “Vent d’Ouest”, Intermarché “Les bouquets du terroir”, Monoprix “Les terroirs de France” (2), Promodés and its brand “Reflets de France” for the “Continent” hypermarkets (3). At the same time it is asserted that “The term is a mere common noun. Unprotectable and therefore unprotected” (4).

Temperature has a decisive influence on the growth and development of plants (Carbonneau et al., 1992). In particular, in the case of the vine, the temperature is an omnipresent variable in the climatic indices (Huglin, 1986). For reasons of convenience, these indices use the temperature of the air measured under shelter in a meteorological station, making the implicit hypothesis of a concordance between this temperature and that of the sites of perception of the thermal stimulus by the plant. However, development may be more dependent on soil temperature than air temperature (Kliewer, 1975). Morlat (1989) thus verified that the variability in the precocity of the vine, positively correlated with the quality of the harvest and of the wine in the Loire Valley, was mainly explained by differences in temperature of the root zones.

“The vine and the wine are great mysteries. Only the vine makes us intelligible what is the true flavor of the earth”. Colette. The notion of terroir has always been the basis of the notion of AOC from which it is inseparable. It is moreover the definition of the production zone which was at the start of the attempts to set up the designation of origin, at the beginning of the century, after the phylloxera crisis.

Different “landscape unit” have been identified in Bolgheri area (a viticultural appellation in the Tirrenian coast of Tuscany) by the aid of pedological, landscape and agronomic observations in the 1992-1993 period. In all cultivar (Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) x landscape unit combinations, experimental plots were chosen in homogeneous vineyards, single cordon trained (about 3300-4500 vines/hectare). Grape maturation was studied by weekly samples of berries from veraison to vintage in the 1992-1995 period. At harvest yield and must composition traits were measured and, from the most représentative plots, sixty kilograms of grapes were harvested each year and vinified according to a standardised scheme. Wines were evaluated by standard chemical and sensory analyses.

Syrah is a grape with weak aromatic expression. This atypical grape variety as a fruit allows the production of wines of great reputation for which the aromatic particularity plays an important role. The varietal aroma consists of volatile substances directly perceptible by the olfactory mucosa and of aroma precursors, of which the glycosides constitute an important class.

Different terroirs have been identified in Bolgheri area (a viticultural appellation in the Tirrenian coast of Tuscany) by the aid of pedological, landscape and agronomic observations in 1993. Numerous preliminary observations suggested that wines obtained from these different terroirs were unique.

Pour prévoir et gérer chaque année les principales caractéristiques de la maturation en Champagne, le CIVC (Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne) a développé un ensemble de moyens de prévision et d’information très performants qui permettent aux différents acteurs de la filière viti-vinicole de prendre en compte ces informations à l’échelle de chaque terroir communal pour la recherche d’une qualité optimale.

The Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée of Bandol covers an area of ​​1365 ha, 83% of which are planted with vines, the annual production being around 40,000 hl. Among the wines produced, there are mainly reds which assert themselves over time, but also rosés characterized by their pale colour, generally orange; the whites represent a small part of the production. The main grape variety of this AOC is Mouvèdre, of Spanish origin, which is also found in Provence and Languedoc.

Ce travail a pour objet l’analyse des résultats agronomiques obtenus sur trois unités expérimentales du Centre d’Etudes Vitivinicoles du Douro (CEVDouro), localisées dans des écosystèmes différenciés de la Région du Douro/Vin de Porto, à différentes altitudes (130, 330 et 520 mètres) et à des expositions diversifiées (SE, N et W).

The maturation patterns process has been very studied. In particular the modelization of the sugars and titratable acidity during the ripening period was an important approach, in particular for the prediction of harvest date (Barillere et al., 1988; Jourion et al.,1987; Maujean et al., 1983; Scienza, 1989). In Oltrepò Pavese, the widest viticultural district of Lombardy – Northern Italy – (about 15000 hectares), grape maturation trends shows high variability, due to the large variation in environmental characteristics of vineyards (altitude, exposure, soil type, mesoclimate) and to “cultivar x environment” interaction.

The Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée area of ​​Cahors (Lot) covers an area of ​​21,700 ha, spread over 45 municipalities, of which only 4,300 are planted with vines. The main grape variety of this AOC is the Cot noir which represents 70% of the grape varieties, thus giving their typicality to the wines of this region; but despite this importance, to our knowledge, its physiology has remained relatively unstudied.

The quality of grapevines measured by yield and must density in the northern part of Europe -conditions can be characterized as a type of “cool climate” – vary strongly from year to year and from one production site to another, i.e. différences in must densities can range from 30 to 50 °Oe. An explanation may be changes of weather conditions during critical developmental stages of the grapevines (2, 3, 5). These can be categorized as “macro climatic” influences.

La Région Piemonte a commencé en 1994 un projet de caractérisation des productions vitivinicoles des terroirs du Barolo (Piemonte, Italie) par une équipe pluridisciplinaire avec la participation de 6 Instituts de recherche qui travaillent dans la Région et la collaboration de 2 Associations des producteurs viticoles et des organismes de valorisation du vin Barolo.

Les enzymes d’oxydation (polyphénoloxydase, peroxydase) des raisins sont d’origine génétique dépendantes des facteurs climatiques et agrotechniques (Sapis et al, 1983). Dans le processus technologique de l’obtention du moût de raisins, ces enzymes catalysent l’oxydation de certains composés phénoliques naturellement présents dans le raisin, produisant ainsi des modifications indésirables de la couleur et de l’arôme du vin.