Proceedings of Terroir 1996

“The vine and the wine are great mysteries. Only the vine makes us intelligible what is the true flavor of the earth”. Colette. The notion of terroir has always been the basis of the notion of AOC from which it is inseparable. It is moreover the definition of the production zone which was at the start of the attempts to set up the designation of origin, at the beginning of the century, after the phylloxera crisis.

The Champagne vineyard extends over 35,300 ha under the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée, of which 30,000 are in production. It mainly covers 3 departments: in order of importance, Marne (68% of the appellation area), Aube (22%) and Aisne (10%), and more anecdotally Haute Marne and Seine and Mame. It is a young vineyard (for more than half of the surface, the winegrowers have the experience of only one generation of vines), and fragmented (more than half of the exploitations extend over less than 1 ha; the average size of a cadastral parcel is 12 ares).

The viticulture of the Douro Delimited Region, one of the heirs of ancestral viticulture, traditionally empirical and of quality, while integrating modernity and contemporary tools, respects and has always present the principles on which it was developed.

The climatic component is one of the elements of the zoning of viticultural potential, alongside the geological and pedological components (Morlat, 1989; Lebon et al , 1993). Many climatic indices have thus been defined to estimate the potential for wine production at the scale of a region or a country (Carbonneau et al ., 1992). The main climatic variables used are temperature and radiation. We note in particular the indices of Branas, Huglin and Ribereau-Gayon (Huglin, 1986). However, few studies have been undertaken on the spatial variability of microclimatic conditions at the scale of a vineyard, a valley, or even a municipality.

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In the course of the present work, which is the first part of a study on the “characterization of Barbera dell’Oltrepo Pavese D.O.C.” 30 wines Barbera from 1993 vintage have been compared only regarding their sensory characteristics. An unstructured scale card, composed by 15 descriptors have been used.

The Pomerol vineyard, located 35 km east of Bordeaux, covers around 800 ha on the left bank of the Isle. There is a system of fluvial terraces with more or less coarse gravel and pebble spreading, resting on a Tertiary substratum ranging from the Middle to Upper Eocene to the Lower Oligocene (Dubreuilh, 1993). This interweaving of terraces of varying thickness results in a brutal superposition of differentiated materials which give rise to various types of soil. Several site studies in this sector of the Libounais show significant morphological and analytical differences from one point to another (Guilloux et al ., 1978; Duteau, 1982; Van Leeuwen et al.., 1989). The distribution of the soils of the Pomerol vineyard was studied and resulted in a cartography at 1/25000th (Merouge, 1995).

A worrying drop in the acidity of wines has been observed in many wine regions, such as Bordeaux (Merlot), Burgundy (Pinot Noir), Côtes-du-Rhône (Grenache) or Rioja (Tempranillo). This lack of acidity is particularly marked in the Midi-Pyrenean vineyards of the Côtes du Frontonnais (Tournier, 1993). However, the acidity of a wine is one of the main factors of its quality, in fact, a low acidity combined with an insufficient tannic structure leads to rapid oxidation of wines and makes them age prematurely.

L’étude porte sur trois terroirs du Roussillon, classés dans l’A.O.C. Muscat de Rivesaltes et concerne les 2 cépages de cette appellation : le muscat à petits grains et le muscat d’Alexandrie. Elle a pour objectif de connaître pour un terroir donné le meilleur choix de cépage.

The "Terroirs d'Anjou" project led by the Agronomy sector of the Vine and Wine Research Unit of the INRA center in Angers aims to characterize the viticultural terroirs in a study area which includes 29 municipalities in the Maine et Loire and cuts across the Anjou, Coteaux du layon and Coteaux de l'Aubance appellation areas.

The Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée of Bandol covers an area of ​​1365 ha, 83% of which are planted with vines, the annual production being around 40,000 hl. Among the wines produced, there are mainly reds which assert themselves over time, but also rosés characterized by their pale colour, generally orange; the whites represent a small part of the production. The main grape variety of this AOC is Mouvèdre, of Spanish origin, which is also found in Provence and Languedoc.

On peut être surpris de l’existence d’un vignoble de vins liquoreux, le vignoble des Coteaux du Layon, dans une zone septentrionale à la limite Nord de la culture de qualité de la vigne et ce d’autant plus que le cépage de ce vignoble, le Chenin ou Pineau de la Loire, est un cépage semi tardif. La première explication est à rechercher au niveau des facteurs naturels (données climatiques et géopédologiques) permettant la réalisation de ce type de produit. Il est nécessaire de souligner ici l’importance de chaque paramètre du terroir pris dans im sens large (géopédologique et climatique) et que toute variation de l’un d’entre eux, même non perceptible en première analyse à l’homme, peut avoir des incidences déterminantes sur la qualité des vins.

In the global economic context, an Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée must now more than ever control the typicity and originality of the wines it produces. It is in this spirit that the Côtes du Rhône have decided to acquire the means necessary for this control.

Different terroirs have been identified in Bolgheri area (a viticultural appellation in the Tirrenian coast of Tuscany) by the aid of pedological, landscape and agronomic observations in 1993. Numerous preliminary observations suggested that wines obtained from these different terroirs were unique.

A partir des recherches conduites sur la caractérisation des terroirs viticoles par des chercheurs de l’Unité de Recherches Vigne et Vin (1, 2, 3, 4, 5) du Centre INRA d’Angers, Terre des Sciences, le Centre de Culture Scientifique et Technique d’Angers (CCSTA) a mis au point un parcours de découverte d’une journée dans le vignoble angevin avec une approche pluridisciplinaire.